Travels to Valdobbiadene, the land of DOCG Prosecco

"Come quickly, I am tasting the stars."  Dom Perignon

For many years my husband, Jim, and I made an annual pilgrimage to Valdobbiadene one hour north of Venice.  In the Zucchetto cantina, we would taste the new Prosecco and eat local sausages and cheeses.  Then we would adjourn to the cellar.  And there, surrounded by the perfume of fermentation, amidst a forest of stainless steel, we would taste directly from the tanks -- the elixer still fermenting, tasting of the sweetness of the grapes, alive, growing.  But since moving to Italy and giving up our import license in the US, we have made fewer trips to Prosecco country.  I was missing the beauty of Valdobbiadene, it's steep hills covered with vineyards and in the distance the foothills of the alps.  I missed the Prosecco; and I missed Carlo Zucchetto who taught me most of what I know about this sparkling wine.  Our trip to Vinitaly brought us within 90 minutes of Valdobbiadene, so we decided to do some Prosecco tasting before heading home to Le Marche.  On the way, we planned a small sojourn in Venice.  While Venice is one of my favorite cities, on this trip, I was glad to be leaving and heading north.  Mostly it was the pounding rain, the howling wind, and the 18 inches of water covering Saint Mark's Square that prompted me to leave with no regrets.  But, also, if I am being totally honest with myself, it was the anticipation of tasting some new Prosecco.   

The dog in the china shop. Luca, in his rain coat, and I escaped the rain in Venice by stopping by our friend, Roberto's, murano glass shop, Marco Polo International.

When our Alfa exited the autostrada at Conegliano, Jim and I began a journey that we had taken many times before.  However, this time, as we drove through the countryside, we noticed some changes in the landscape.  Vines, vines, everywhere vines.  Like, Napa Valley, the area around Valdobbiadene is now more than ever all about the wine, and in this case Prosecco.  However, unlike Napa where large wineries own large tracts of vineyards, here,  ownership of any particular hillside of vines is usually divided among many growers.  And each winery generally owns a number of different plots in a variety of locations few of which are more than a hectare.  Take the Cartizze hill, for example.  This geography, which has the distinction of producing Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze, the most valued Prosecco, is the most sought after land in the Prosecco DOCG area.  The 106 hectares which make up the Cartizze area are owned by approximately 140 growers.  Each hectare is today valued at about $2.5 million dollars, making this one of the most pricey plots of land in all of Italy. 

Strada Cartizze, Valdobbiadene

I learned first hand about the way the Cartizze vineyards are divided when we volunteered to help Carlo Zucchetto with the harvest nearly 10 years ago.  I had been anxious to join in a harvest (vendemmia in Italian).  While I wanted to learn everything I could about the making of Prosecco, my desire  was also spurred on by the tales of the camaraderie of the harvest in any number of books by ex-pats writing about life in Italy.  So, when we arrived at the Cartizze vineyards one sunny,  September morning, I was ready for my lesson in grape harvesting.  After the three minute manager version of grape picking, Carlo handed Jim and I the sheers and two buckets.  Then he was gone, returning  to the cantina where he was supervising the grape crushing.  Now, we were on our own, with no English speakers in sight.   I picked and picked filling bucket after bucket with bunches of grapes.  Carefully looking out for vipers and spiders,  I went along in my own little world with the tune of "I heard it through the grapevine" going around in my head.   Finally, I finished in my part of the row and picked up the bucket to cross over a little path and continue picking.  I was at it for a couple of minutes when suddenly I heard a panicked voice.  "Senora, no.  Questa Si; questa No." (This yes; this no.)  Well, I looked around and saw the gentleman who worked for Carlo running toward me and close behind was Carlo's father.  Carlo's father had that look of resignation on his face as he shook his head.  He was also shaking his finger at me.  You know that slow back and forth motion often used for children to indicate that something is a no no.  Okay, finally I got it.  Apparently, I was poaching someone's  Cartizze grapes.  That little path was a dividing line between the vineyards.  Now very embarrassed and appropriately chastised, I  returned to the proper vineyard to continue my work - relieved that my sheers and bucket were not confiscated.  Pursuant to this mortifying experience it is firmly ingrained in my consciousness that the vineyards on the Cartizze hill are owned by many growers. 

The Cartizze alta hill, scene of the crime

As the car made its way to Soligo, where we would spend two nights, I reminisced about the harvest and all of those visits in prior years.  Finally, we arrived at our hotel and immediately headed to the restaurant for a light lunch before beginning our winery visits.  While Jim's goal for this trip was nostalgic, he wanted to taste from the tanks again.  I wanted to do something new; I wanted to taste a methodo classico Prosecco.  Among the many millions of bottles of Prosecco produced every year, methodo classico is rather rare.  And while I pride myself on having tried every  Prosecco that I have encountered, I had yet to find a methodo classico.   (Of course, I should state right here that once it is made in the classic method, a wine from the glera grape can no longer be called Prosecco.  It is merely spumante.) 

After lunch, we arranged to meet Carlo the next morning to taste the Zucchetto Prosecco and headed off to visit Bisol in Santo Stefano.  Bisol, a producer whose Prosecco I have enjoyed over the years in the US, is one of a hand full of producers making methodo classico from the glera grape.  An ancient winery with a history documented back to 1542, Bisol is also distinguished from many other large producers, in that  they grow, harvest, and produce their wines from their own 20 vineyards representing approximately 100 hectares.  (Bisol makes approximately 2.5 M bottles of Prosecco a year.)

The hill of glera grapes behind the Bisol cantina

Our trusty GPS guided us to Bisol, (for once a GPS worked for us in Italy).  The winery is tucked away on a little narrow strip of road set amidst vine covered hills in.  At the large iron entry gate, we pushed the call button and were buzzed in to the winery.  Entering the small cantina we were advised that our dog, Luca, was not allowed inside, so we were led to a table on the patio for the tasting.  Once it was established what Bisol Prosecco we had tasted in the past and that I was interested in tasting methodo classico, a flight of four Proseccos was identified - 2 of the Cru, 1 special non dosage Cartizze fermented in the bottle, and finally, the methodo classico.   I was eager, so much Prosecco to try.  And with the arrival of glasses and 4 distinctive bottles, the tasting began.

Inside the Bisol cantina where no dog shall enter.

First up, Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, named for the particular type of soil in the hills of Valdobbiadene.  This is a beautiful charmat brut Prosecco which has been highly rated by a number of well known wine critics.  It is made from just the right combination of  glera grapes (85%), pinot bianco (10%), and verdiso (5%) adding depth and nuance to the wine.  In the glass this prosecco is light straw yellow with minute and persistent bubbles which float energetically to the surface.  The bouquet emits fruits and wildflowers, and the flavor follows through with the taste of apples and pears.  This is a definite addition to the list of favorite Proseccos.  Serve Crede not just as an aperitif.  It has enough structure and personality to accompany much of the meal.  Serve it with fish, light pasta or chicken dishes, and vegetable tarts. Definitely a 2 thumbs up sparkling wine.

Bisol Crede and Garnei

Next up was the Garnei, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, DOCG, a brut made from 100% glera grapes.  (The name Garnei means grape.)  This is a special Prosecco made from select bunches of grapes from the best vines.  In comparison to most Prosecco made by the charmat process, Garnei undergoes a longer fermentation - at least 16 months from harvest to the glass.  While the Garnei was slowly poured into the glass, I noted its color, straw yellow, somewhat more colorful than most Prosecco .  The nose emits fruits typical of the glera grape - apples, peach, and maybe even a hint of almond.  And the perlage is fine and persistent but soft in the mouth.  This is another Prosecco with great depth and structure.  If I had to choose between the Crede and the Garnei, I would just have to put on a blindfold and pick one.  They are both excellent Proseccos with noticeable differences in character, but both well structured and capable of accompanying the meal.  Another two thumbs up. 

Third on our tasting menu was the Bisol Private Cartizze, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze.  This is a non dosage spumante made from 100% glera grapes and bottle aged for 11 months.  As the name indicates, this is a special and elegant Prosecco with approximately  1,769 numbered bottles produced each year.  In the tradition of Cristal champagne, Bisol Private Cartizze comes in a clear bottle with a very distinctive, manually braded closure and a wrapping of light tissue paper.  It's distinctive packaging perfectly presents this distinctive wine.  In the glass the color is a light straw yellow with an energetic and persistent perlage.  The nose emits an underlying hint of bread crust topped with fruits and herbs.  This is a dry and balanced Prosecco which retains the mineralness of the glera grape.  While this Prosecco has been bottle aged, it has been in the bottle for fewer than one year thus it is not truly a methodo classico.  For anyone looking for a Prosecco that is definitely a cut above the norm, this could be what you are looking for, but you might have to go to Italy to find it.  This is definitely a special occasion wine, so I am wondering what day I can declare as special to pop the cork. 

Private Cartizze

Relio

Finally, the wine I came to taste, Relio, a methodo classico Spumante extra Brut made from 100% glera grapes.  Again, this is a very small production wine with only a few thousand bottles a year produced.  Named for one of the driving forces of the Bisol winery, Aurelio Bisol who managed the vineyards, Relio is another distinctively packaged wine.  The clear bottle is encased in a woven cloth.  The scant identifying information incorporated on a leather strip.  Very classy - eat your heart out Cristal.  Ah, yes, but we should never judge a book by its cover, so it was time to stop ogling the bottle and taste the contents.  Time seemed to dissolve into a slow motion camera shot as the liquid ran down the sides of the glass, or was it just my impatience.  As I lifted the glass, the golden liquid danced, a fine and persistent perlage flying upward on gossamer wings.  I inhaled the scent of bread crusts and ripe fruits with a hint of flowers.  All in all, a pleasing and beckoning scent.  And, so with great expectations, I lifted the glass and took a first sip.  All I can say is that my first sip elicited a big smile.  YUM!  This wine has character and depth and would surely please lovers of champagne.  However, it maintains a fruity and mineral flavor without an overpowering flavor of yeast.  It appears the 25 years of development have certainly paid off in an incredible product in which the dosage provides some balance but does not overpower the nature of the grape.  A very interesting wine that will go well with any fish dish.

For more information about the Bisol winery, visit their website at www.bisol.it.    You can find Bisol Crede in the United States on www.wine-searcher.com. 

Return next week for more wine tasting along the Prosecco road.

The hills of Valdobbiadene - vines, vines everywhere vines