"Wine is sunlight held together by water." Galileo Gallilei
There is a first time for everything. But not all firsts are particularly memorable events. The memorable ones we commemorate in song, some in diaries, some with tee shirts, photgraphs, etc. But, there is one first that will always just remain a memory, and fortunately, while it was the first time, it was not the only time. And that is the tasting of the fermenting wine from the stainless steel tanks at the Zucchetto winery in Valdobbiadene. (Do not confuse this with what the Italians call Sfuso which literally translates as loose, but in wine speak is the inexpensive wine that is pumped directly into your 5 liter bottle from the tanks. Sfuso is mature and ready to drink.)
The first time we tasted the still developing wine from the tanks happened about a dozen years ago on our first trip to Valdobbiadene in search of a Prosecco to import to California. As I have mentioned previously, a chance encounter at the hotel directed us to the Zucchetto winery, and the rest is history. That was the day we first met Carlo Zucchetto. And, when he took us into the cellar, he filled glass after glass with the immature wine from various tanks. Jim still remembers this event with a smile and some nostalgia. For, as he drank the proffered juice from the tank, he blissfully believed there was no alcohol in it. So, he chugged down each glass full, first the Extra Dry, then the Puro Fol, then the Cartizze. Unfortunately, as Carlo advised him after he drained the glasses, there is alcohol in the juice at this point in the process.
Perhaps it is this misconception that made the first time so memorable for Jim. For me, it was more about the significance of the event itself. It was a confirmation that we were indeed wine importers and Prosecco would be the first wine we would import. Today, we reside in Italy and no longer import wines to the US, but that fact did not preclude Jim from wanting to taste from the tank on our recent trip to Valdobbiadene. And our friend, Carlo, needed no prompting to accommodate Jim's wish.
We arrived at the Zucchetto cantina, greeted Carlo and his father, Paolo, and then followed Carlo straight to the cellar. Jim's eyes lit up when Carlo pulled out a couple of glasses and started to pour the wine from the tanks.
The first time we tasted the still developing wine from the tanks happened about a dozen years ago on our first trip to Valdobbiadene in search of a Prosecco to import to California. As I have mentioned previously, a chance encounter at the hotel directed us to the Zucchetto winery, and the rest is history. That was the day we first met Carlo Zucchetto. And, when he took us into the cellar, he filled glass after glass with the immature wine from various tanks. Jim still remembers this event with a smile and some nostalgia. For, as he drank the proffered juice from the tank, he blissfully believed there was no alcohol in it. So, he chugged down each glass full, first the Extra Dry, then the Puro Fol, then the Cartizze. Unfortunately, as Carlo advised him after he drained the glasses, there is alcohol in the juice at this point in the process.
Perhaps it is this misconception that made the first time so memorable for Jim. For me, it was more about the significance of the event itself. It was a confirmation that we were indeed wine importers and Prosecco would be the first wine we would import. Today, we reside in Italy and no longer import wines to the US, but that fact did not preclude Jim from wanting to taste from the tank on our recent trip to Valdobbiadene. And our friend, Carlo, needed no prompting to accommodate Jim's wish.
We arrived at the Zucchetto cantina, greeted Carlo and his father, Paolo, and then followed Carlo straight to the cellar. Jim's eyes lit up when Carlo pulled out a couple of glasses and started to pour the wine from the tanks.
Carlo taking the wine from the tanks for our tasting
A glass of PuroFol from the tank
Tasting this very immature and unfiltered version of what will become Prosecco in a number of months is interesting, but also somewhat confusing. In the glass the liquid is not clear, and it is not, at this point, sparkling. It has a golden and greenish hue. The scent is more alcohol than fruit and flowers, but there are hints of what the nose will be. The taste is obviously not fruit juice; the alcohol is there, and some notes of citrus, but the structure is yet to develop. It is still raw, unrefined. But it is a promise of great things to come.
And we were to learn that there will be more new things coming from the Zucchetto cantina, where Carlo continually strives for innovation. After tasting from the tanks, Carlo led us to a new section of the cantina where new French oak barrels were arranged against the wall. Here, Chardonnay is aging. In another 6 months or so, some of this Chardonnay may be blended with glera and after further aging some will be bottled as a new Zucchetto Chardonnay. After a taste from the barrels, I can say that this is going to be a California style Chardonnay, not the lighter fruity version usually produced in Italy.
French oak barrels filled with Chardonnay
Back in the cantina, the 2014 Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G. Brut PuroFol and Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze D.O.C.G. awaited, and we were anxious to taste the current offering. We knew that 2014 was a difficult wine year in Italy since the summer was so wet and less warm than normal. And we have tasted the difference in our local Marche wines. So I was curious to see if there was the same effect on the 2014 Prosecco. There are predictions of a potential Prosecco shortage with production in some D.O.C. areas around Treviso reduced by nearly 50%. However, in Valdobbiadene, the D.O.C.G. harvest yield was generally within normal parameters.
We sat at the table in the cantina with Carlo, Paolo, and a local wine writer and waited as Carlo popped the cork on the PuroFol Brut.
We sat at the table in the cantina with Carlo, Paolo, and a local wine writer and waited as Carlo popped the cork on the PuroFol Brut.
In the cantina, a glass of PuroFol. (Carlo is in the background preparing local salumi and cheese to accompany the wine tasting.)
PuroFol has always been my favorite Prosecco. Made from 100% glera grapes harvested in the Zucchetto vineyards in Follo, this is a very low sugar Prosecco, crisp and clean. Generally there is a prominent taste of green apples and sometimes almond on the finish. The PuroFol being served had just been bottled a few days before and would generally rest another month prior to sale. And, when it was opened, it was a little agitated, with profuse bubbles. The color was a very pale yellow. The nose citrus, apples, and, interestingly, maybe a little bread crust. On the palate, this year's PuroFol, was not as spare as a few in the past with a little added depth. I think in another month, this will be another winning Prosecco, but at this point in time it needed the additional month to chill out. Enjoy it with fish, vegetable dishes, or with appetizers.
Newly bottled Prosecco which will rest for 1 more month prior to distribution
The Cartizze was everything I expected in the grand tradition of Zucchetto Cartizze. Not as sweet as most Cartizze, this one is all about creamy and elegant. Made from 100% glera grapes from the Zucchetto vineyards on the Cartizze alta hill, the color is luminous and the perlage is persistent and energetic. The nose is peach, with a hint of apple. The palate is smooth tasting of stone fruit with a finish of almond. Cartizze is wonderful paired with desserts such as fruit tarts and even a rich chocolate torta. However, Carlo's, with reduced sugar, is also an excellent aperitif.
To learn more about the Zucchetto winery, visit them at http://www.zucchetto.com. Zucchetto Prosecco is available at http://www.chigazolamerchants.com/products/zucchetto-prosecco-cartizze-docg.
To learn more about the Zucchetto winery, visit them at http://www.zucchetto.com. Zucchetto Prosecco is available at http://www.chigazolamerchants.com/products/zucchetto-prosecco-cartizze-docg.
Discussing the wine from the tanks and the 2014 harvest with Carlo in the cellar. Luca has had enough of wine talk.
An afterthought:
For those of you wondering about the derivation of the name Zucchetto, the word has several meanings in Italian. First it is a little pumpkin from the word, Zucca. However, the more prevalent meaning of zucchetto is the little skull cap worn by priests which is said to resemble half of a pumpkin. I have no idea how this relates to Carlo, his family and the winery. It is just some trivia.
For those of you wondering about the derivation of the name Zucchetto, the word has several meanings in Italian. First it is a little pumpkin from the word, Zucca. However, the more prevalent meaning of zucchetto is the little skull cap worn by priests which is said to resemble half of a pumpkin. I have no idea how this relates to Carlo, his family and the winery. It is just some trivia.
