"In a perfect world, everyone would have a glass of champagne every evening." Willie Gluckstern
Ever since our first trip to Valdobbiadene over a decade ago, my husband, Jim, and I have had this persistent belief that there is magic in the Prosecco hills, and it is not just the vines. One would think that after as many trips as we have made to the area, we would be able to find our way around by now. Well, think again. Jim postulates that the roads move and change. I just think that things disappear and appear sporadically, with no warning. If there was ever a place suited for habitation by the Potters and the Weasleys, this is the place. And our recent trip just added more credence to this belief.
On our way to visit Bisol (discussed in my prior post) we passed by Il Follo. It was only about five city blocks away, on the same road. I was interested in tasting Il Follo as I had enjoyed one of their Proseccos in California a number of years ago. We agreed that when we were finished at Bisol, our next stop would be Il Follo. As we exited the Bisol winery, we believed we would be at Il Follo in about 3 minutes,but that was not the case as apparently the road sprites of Valdobbiadene were up to their old tricks. We drove down the road looking for the entrance to Il Follo, and we finally reached a crossroad. At this point, it was obvious we had gone too far. How we could have missed it when we were both so focused on finding the entrance I will never know. But after driving back down the road with no luck, we resorted to the GPS. Of course, the GPS was no better at finding it than we were. Just when we were ready to declare Il Follo no more than a hallucination, we saw a little sign with an arrow indicating that Il Follo was straight ahead. We proceeded down the road, but it just was not to be found. Il Follo had been swallowed up, hidden in a mist, or merely misplaced. After so many false starts, driving up one road and down another and passing by Bisol another time or two, we finally gave up. I was disappointed, but it was now time for the cantinas to close. And so with regret, we acknowledged that we would just have to wait until the next day to taste the products of more Prosecco makers.
On our way to visit Bisol (discussed in my prior post) we passed by Il Follo. It was only about five city blocks away, on the same road. I was interested in tasting Il Follo as I had enjoyed one of their Proseccos in California a number of years ago. We agreed that when we were finished at Bisol, our next stop would be Il Follo. As we exited the Bisol winery, we believed we would be at Il Follo in about 3 minutes,but that was not the case as apparently the road sprites of Valdobbiadene were up to their old tricks. We drove down the road looking for the entrance to Il Follo, and we finally reached a crossroad. At this point, it was obvious we had gone too far. How we could have missed it when we were both so focused on finding the entrance I will never know. But after driving back down the road with no luck, we resorted to the GPS. Of course, the GPS was no better at finding it than we were. Just when we were ready to declare Il Follo no more than a hallucination, we saw a little sign with an arrow indicating that Il Follo was straight ahead. We proceeded down the road, but it just was not to be found. Il Follo had been swallowed up, hidden in a mist, or merely misplaced. After so many false starts, driving up one road and down another and passing by Bisol another time or two, we finally gave up. I was disappointed, but it was now time for the cantinas to close. And so with regret, we acknowledged that we would just have to wait until the next day to taste the products of more Prosecco makers.
The roads of Valdobbiadene, surrounded by the Cartizze hills
While the road sprites tormented us on that first day, the weather gods smiled on us the next morning as we headed off to taste at Silvano Follador. Follador is a small family owned winery run by a brother and sister team. Silvano and Alberta took over after the death of their grandfather in 1999. Since that time, they have expanded their vineyard holdings and implemented a number of changes until today their wines are made by biodynamic farming methods. They produce only Brut and Cartizze prosecco and a dosage zero made by the classic champagne method with a second fermentation in the bottle. Apparently the street sprites were on vacation on this particular morning as we found Follador without incident. At the tasting room we were met by Alberta, who informed us that there was only one wine available for tasting, the Follador Brut 2014 which had just been bottled two days before. Well, needless to say, I was disappointed that there was no methodo classico to taste, but, there was still Prosecco. So, life was good.
At the Silvano Follador Cantina
Silvano Follador makes about 15,000 bottles a year of their Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Nature. As is typical of Prosecco, it is made by the charmat method (called methodo martinotti in Italy) with the second fermentation in pressurized stainless steel tanks. However, at Follador the first fermentation begins in cement tanks. When we tasted the brut Prosecco in the cantina just after the bottling, the perlage was very aggressive, so we took a few bottles home and let them sit for a couple of weeks. One afternoon, following our Italian lesson, we opened a bottle to taste with our friend (and Italian teacher) Cristina who in the past has headed an Italian organization designed to promote Italian sparkling wines made in the classic method. We were very pleasantly surprised by the change in the wine that now had had a little time to rest after the very disturbing process of bottling. The perlage was energetic and persistent and consistent with my expectations for a fine Prosecco. The nose was fruity with an overlay of almonds. Follador produces this wine from an melding of four grape varieties. Of course, the wine is predominantly Glera, (once called Prosecco), but it also contains a small percentage of Verdiso, Perera and Bianchetta. This is an interesting grape mixture producing a wine with greater structure than many Proseccos. The reduced sugar, a current trend in Prosecco making, gives the wine a very crisp and clean palate making it an enjoyable accompaniment to fish dishes. Of course, it is also a wonderful aperitif and accompaniment to appetizers.
 Silvano Follador Prosecco Brut Nature with Alberta in the background |  Silvano Follador Brut Nature |
For more information about the Silvano Follador winery, visit their website at http://www.silvanofollador.com. Their prosecco is available in the US at Artisan Wine Depot. http://www.artisanwinedepot.com/Silvano_Follador_Valdobbiadene_Superiore_Brut_DOC_p/silvanofolladorvaldobbiade12-w.htm
At the Silvano Follador winery
We had a second tasting appointment scheduled this morning, so we bid farewell to Silvano Follador, started up the Alfa, and headed off toward Valdobbiadene. When what to my wondering eyes should appear but, no not a miniature sleigh and 8 tiny reindeer, but the ever elusive Il Follo winery. Okay, this is just another Valdobbiadene magical moment. Without a second thought, we pulled into the parking area and headed to the door of the cantina.
The Il Follo cantina
The Il Follo winery, founded in 1960, is today managed by the father and son team of Vittorio and Luca Follador. (Notice the surname is the same as the Silvano Follador winery. This surname, Follador, has a long history in the area, and, like so many Italian surnames, is associated with the type of work a person does. In the dialect of the Veneto region " follare l'uve" means to press the grapes and produce wine.) As we entered the cantina, we were met by Attilo, Vittorio's father who once managed the vineyards. And, thus, our conversation turned to the changing nature of Prosecco and the vineyards of Valdobbiadene and Treviso.
Prosecco, today the number one selling sparkling wine in the world, is undergoing a transformation. Large quantities of less expensive and generally lower quality Prosecco are produced in Treviso (now classified as DOC wines) where the terroir, coupled with the fact that these vines are relatively young, creates a very different wine. In Valdobbiadene, also, there has been an explosion of new vines producing subtle changes to the Prosecco. There are still wonderful Proseccos out there, but there are also many new comers to the marketplace producing less expensive and often inferior products. Even an established, large producer like Il Follo, now makes their Extra Dry Prosecco from grapes grown in the Treviso doc area.
The Il Follo Extra Dry was the first wine we tasted. Unfortunately, it was not the wine we tasted more than five years ago. While the wine had a beautiful pale hue and a persistent perlage, with the scent of almonds and citrus, the flavor was unusual for a Prosecco. Both Jim and I agreed that there was the subtle flavor of bubble gum. And every taste I took reminded me of Bazooka Bubble gum, each piece wrapped in paper with a little comic inside.
Prosecco, today the number one selling sparkling wine in the world, is undergoing a transformation. Large quantities of less expensive and generally lower quality Prosecco are produced in Treviso (now classified as DOC wines) where the terroir, coupled with the fact that these vines are relatively young, creates a very different wine. In Valdobbiadene, also, there has been an explosion of new vines producing subtle changes to the Prosecco. There are still wonderful Proseccos out there, but there are also many new comers to the marketplace producing less expensive and often inferior products. Even an established, large producer like Il Follo, now makes their Extra Dry Prosecco from grapes grown in the Treviso doc area.
The Il Follo Extra Dry was the first wine we tasted. Unfortunately, it was not the wine we tasted more than five years ago. While the wine had a beautiful pale hue and a persistent perlage, with the scent of almonds and citrus, the flavor was unusual for a Prosecco. Both Jim and I agreed that there was the subtle flavor of bubble gum. And every taste I took reminded me of Bazooka Bubble gum, each piece wrapped in paper with a little comic inside.
In the Il Follo cantina, a line up of Il Follo wines of today and yesterday
| Our second taste was the Il Follo Millesimato Villa Luigia Brut made from 100% glera grapes from Valdobbiadene. This wine was a classic prosecco with all of the traits I look for. In the glass the Villa Luigia has a soft golden color with a enthusiastic perlage. The nose was typical of prosecco with citrus fruits and flowers but also with a hint of herb and yeast. While in the mouth the perlage was lively, it was more subtle than many and the taste was citrus and almonds. This Prosecco had some depth to it making it suitable for more than just an aperitif. It could easily accompany fish dishes and even pastas with a light sauce or vegetable dishes. |  |
| The third wine we tasted was one that prompted my desire to taste at Il Follo on this trip. It was a rose Prosecco, Il Follo Cuvee Rose Brut. While my experience with rose Prosecco has been mixed, when you find a good one, it is very, very good. Unfortunately, at times the red grape variety and the glera grape seem to be dancing to a different tune. So, it was with anticipation and uncertainty that I tasted the Il Follo Cuvee Rose Brut. It is an interesting wine with a nose of wild berries and a little yeast. In the glass, the color is a beautiful pink making it very appealing. The perlage is quite lively and persistent. On the palate, there is an initial flavor of cherries, however, behind this flavor is again a subtle flavor of bubble gum. As I drank, I could not help feeling that the marriage of the two grape varieties ( glera and in this case cabernet sauvignon) was not a love match. |  |
For more information about the Il Follo winery visit http://www.ilfollo.it.
At this point in time we were running late to meet Carlo at the Zucchetto winery, so we thanked Attilo and departed Il Follo. As we exited the parking lot, I crossed my fingers and hoped that the road sprites had been appeased and we would find the Zucchetto winery without a problem.
Coming up next, tasting from the tanks at Zucchetto.
Coming up next, tasting from the tanks at Zucchetto.
