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Travels to Valdobbiadene, the land of DOCG Prosecco

4/27/2015

"Come quickly, I am tasting the stars." Dom Perignon

For many years my husband, Jim, and I made an annual pilgrimage to Valdobbiadene one hour north of Venice. In the Zucchetto cantina, we would taste the new Prosecco and eat local sausages and cheeses. Then we would adjourn to the cellar. And there, surrounded by the perfume of fermentation, amidst a forest of stainless steel, we would taste directly from the tanks -- the elixer still fermenting, tasting of the sweetness of the grapes, alive, growing. But since moving to Italy and giving up our import license in the US, we have made fewer trips to Prosecco country. I was missing the beauty of Valdobbiadene, it's steep hills covered with vineyards and in the distance the foothills of the alps. I missed the Prosecco; and I missed Carlo Zucchetto who taught me most of what I know about this sparkling wine. Our trip to Vinitaly brought us within 90 minutes of Valdobbiadene, so we decided to do some Prosecco tasting before heading home to Le Marche. On the way, we planned a small sojourn in Venice. While Venice is one of my favorite cities, on this trip, I was glad to be leaving and heading north. Mostly it was the pounding rain, the howling wind, and the 18 inches of water covering Saint Mark's Square that prompted me to leave with no regrets. But, also, if I am being totally honest with myself, it was the anticipation of tasting some new Prosecco.

The dog in the china shop. Luca, in his rain coat, and I escaped the rain in Venice by stopping by our friend, Roberto's, murano glass shop, Marco Polo International.

When our Alfa exited the autostrada at Conegliano, Jim and I began a journey that we had taken many times before. However, this time, as we drove through the countryside, we noticed some changes in the landscape. Vines, vines, everywhere vines. Like, Napa Valley, the area around Valdobbiadene is now more than ever all about the wine, and in this case Prosecco. However, unlike Napa where large wineries own large tracts of vineyards, here, ownership of any particular hillside of vines is usually divided among many growers. And each winery generally owns a number of different plots in a variety of locations few of which are more than a hectare. Take the Cartizze hill, for example. This geography, which has the distinction of producing Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze, the most valued Prosecco, is the most sought after land in the Prosecco DOCG area. The 106 hectares which make up the Cartizze area are owned by approximately 140 growers. Each hectare is today valued at about $2.5 million dollars, making this one of the most pricey plots of land in all of Italy.

Strada Cartizze, Valdobbiadene

I learned first hand about the way the Cartizze vineyards are divided when we volunteered to help Carlo Zucchetto with the harvest nearly 10 years ago. I had been anxious to join in a harvest (vendemmia in Italian). While I wanted to learn everything I could about the making of Prosecco, my desire was also spurred on by the tales of the camaraderie of the harvest in any number of books by ex-pats writing about life in Italy. So, when we arrived at the Cartizze vineyards one sunny, September morning, I was ready for my lesson in grape harvesting. After the three minute manager version of grape picking, Carlo handed Jim and I the sheers and two buckets. Then he was gone, returning to the cantina where he was supervising the grape crushing. Now, we were on our own, with no English speakers in sight. I picked and picked filling bucket after bucket with bunches of grapes. Carefully looking out for vipers and spiders, I went along in my own little world with the tune of "I heard it through the grapevine" going around in my head. Finally, I finished in my part of the row and picked up the bucket to cross over a little path and continue picking. I was at it for a couple of minutes when suddenly I heard a panicked voice. "Senora, no. Questa Si; questa No." (This yes; this no.) Well, I looked around and saw the gentleman who worked for Carlo running toward me and close behind was Carlo's father. Carlo's father had that look of resignation on his face as he shook his head. He was also shaking his finger at me. You know that slow back and forth motion often used for children to indicate that something is a no no. Okay, finally I got it. Apparently, I was poaching someone's Cartizze grapes. That little path was a dividing line between the vineyards. Now very embarrassed and appropriately chastised, I returned to the proper vineyard to continue my work - relieved that my sheers and bucket were not confiscated. Pursuant to this mortifying experience it is firmly ingrained in my consciousness that the vineyards on the Cartizze hill are owned by many growers.

The Cartizze alta hill, scene of the crime

As the car made its way to Soligo, where we would spend two nights, I reminisced about the harvest and all of those visits in prior years. Finally, we arrived at our hotel and immediately headed to the restaurant for a light lunch before beginning our winery visits. While Jim's goal for this trip was nostalgic, he wanted to taste from the tanks again. I wanted to do something new; I wanted to taste a methodo classico Prosecco. Among the many millions of bottles of Prosecco produced every year, methodo classico is rather rare. And while I pride myself on having tried every Prosecco that I have encountered, I had yet to find a methodo classico. (Of course, I should state right here that once it is made in the classic method, a wine from the glera grape can no longer be called Prosecco. It is merely spumante.)

After lunch, we arranged to meet Carlo the next morning to taste the Zucchetto Prosecco and headed off to visit Bisol in Santo Stefano. Bisol, a producer whose Prosecco I have enjoyed over the years in the US, is one of a hand full of producers making methodo classico from the glera grape. An ancient winery with a history documented back to 1542, Bisol is also distinguished from many other large producers, in that they grow, harvest, and produce their wines from their own 20 vineyards representing approximately 100 hectares. (Bisol makes approximately 2.5 M bottles of Prosecco a year.)

The hill of glera grapes behind the Bisol cantina

Our trusty GPS guided us to Bisol, (for once a GPS worked for us in Italy). The winery is tucked away on a little narrow strip of road set amidst vine covered hills in. At the large iron entry gate, we pushed the call button and were buzzed in to the winery. Entering the small cantina we were advised that our dog, Luca, was not allowed inside, so we were led to a table on the patio for the tasting. Once it was established what Bisol Prosecco we had tasted in the past and that I was interested in tasting methodo classico, a flight of four Proseccos was identified - 2 of the Cru, 1 special non dosage Cartizze fermented in the bottle, and finally, the methodo classico. I was eager, so much Prosecco to try. And with the arrival of glasses and 4 distinctive bottles, the tasting began.

Inside the Bisol cantina where no dog shall enter.

First up, Crede, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, named for the particular type of soil in the hills of Valdobbiadene. This is a beautiful charmat brut Prosecco which has been highly rated by a number of well known wine critics. It is made from just the right combination of glera grapes (85%), pinot bianco (10%), and verdiso (5%) adding depth and nuance to the wine. In the glass this prosecco is light straw yellow with minute and persistent bubbles which float energetically to the surface. The bouquet emits fruits and wildflowers, and the flavor follows through with the taste of apples and pears. This is a definite addition to the list of favorite Proseccos. Serve Crede not just as an aperitif. It has enough structure and personality to accompany much of the meal. Serve it with fish, light pasta or chicken dishes, and vegetable tarts. Definitely a 2 thumbs up sparkling wine.

Bisol Crede and Garnei

Next up was the Garnei, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, DOCG, a brut made from 100% glera grapes. (The name Garnei means grape.) This is a special Prosecco made from select bunches of grapes from the best vines. In comparison to most Prosecco made by the charmat process, Garnei undergoes a longer fermentation - at least 16 months from harvest to the glass. While the Garnei was slowly poured into the glass, I noted its color, straw yellow, somewhat more colorful than most Prosecco . The nose emits fruits typical of the glera grape - apples, peach, and maybe even a hint of almond. And the perlage is fine and persistent but soft in the mouth. This is another Prosecco with great depth and structure. If I had to choose between the Crede and the Garnei, I would just have to put on a blindfold and pick one. They are both excellent Proseccos with noticeable differences in character, but both well structured and capable of accompanying the meal. Another two thumbs up.

Third on our tasting menu was the Bisol Private Cartizze, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze. This is a non dosage spumante made from 100% glera grapes and bottle aged for 11 months. As the name indicates, this is a special and elegant Prosecco with approximately 1,769 numbered bottles produced each year. In the tradition of Cristal champagne, Bisol Private Cartizze comes in a clear bottle with a very distinctive, manually braded closure and a wrapping of light tissue paper. It's distinctive packaging perfectly presents this distinctive wine. In the glass the color is a light straw yellow with an energetic and persistent perlage. The nose emits an underlying hint of bread crust topped with fruits and herbs. This is a dry and balanced Prosecco which retains the mineralness of the glera grape. While this Prosecco has been bottle aged, it has been in the bottle for fewer than one year thus it is not truly a methodo classico. For anyone looking for a Prosecco that is definitely a cut above the norm, this could be what you are looking for, but you might have to go to Italy to find it. This is definitely a special occasion wine, so I am wondering what day I can declare as special to pop the cork.

Private Cartizze

Relio

Finally, the wine I came to taste, Relio, a methodo classico Spumante extra Brut made from 100% glera grapes. Again, this is a very small production wine with only a few thousand bottles a year produced. Named for one of the driving forces of the Bisol winery, Aurelio Bisol who managed the vineyards, Relio is another distinctively packaged wine. The clear bottle is encased in a woven cloth. The scant identifying information incorporated on a leather strip. Very classy - eat your heart out Cristal. Ah, yes, but we should never judge a book by its cover, so it was time to stop ogling the bottle and taste the contents. Time seemed to dissolve into a slow motion camera shot as the liquid ran down the sides of the glass, or was it just my impatience. As I lifted the glass, the golden liquid danced, a fine and persistent perlage flying upward on gossamer wings. I inhaled the scent of bread crusts and ripe fruits with a hint of flowers. All in all, a pleasing and beckoning scent. And, so with great expectations, I lifted the glass and took a first sip. All I can say is that my first sip elicited a big smile. YUM! This wine has character and depth and would surely please lovers of champagne. However, it maintains a fruity and mineral flavor without an overpowering flavor of yeast. It appears the 25 years of development have certainly paid off in an incredible product in which the dosage provides some balance but does not overpower the nature of the grape. A very interesting wine that will go well with any fish dish.

For more information about the Bisol winery, visit their website at www.bisol.it. You can find Bisol Crede in the United States on www.wine-searcher.com.

Return next week for more wine tasting along the Prosecco road.

The hills of Valdobbiadene - vines, vines everywhere vines

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La Dolce Vita - Franciacorta and Caviar in Sirmione

4/16/2015

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"My only regret in life is that I did not drink more champagne." John Maynard Keynes

The sun was streaming through the window as I pushed back the curtain and looked out upon Lake Garda. I knew I had made the right decision. Today, I would leave the chaos of Vinitaly behind me and spend a day surrounded by the beauty of Sirmione.

The view from my hotel room window in Sirmione

Sirmione is a peninsula at the southern tip of Lake Garda, just as you leave the Veneto region and enter Lombardy. The peninsula, which has been inhabited since the stone age, is strategically located and has played a significant role in military history throughout the centuries. At the tip of the peninsula is one of Sirmione's most memorable sites, Scaliger Castle, a 12th century castle surrounded by a moat with two drawbridges. While the castle might be one of the big draws of Sirmione, there are other sites to explore as well including the Roman ruins (the Grotto of Catullus), the thermal baths, and the quaint medieval village. What draws me to Sirmione is its natural beauty, cleanliness, and the flowers. Have I mentioned the flowers; everywhere there are flowers. Like Venice, I like to think of Sirmione as a kind of Disneyland for adults where the boats are real, the destinations are picturesque, the food is good, and, an as an added bonus, you can drink great wine. And, today, food and wine, specifically Franciacorta, were on my mind.

The streets of Sirmione

Scaliger Castle, Sirmione

As we left the hotel to begin our walk into town, I could feel all of the tensions of days of work and Vinitaly recede, and I embraced the calm. This was a day without a time clock, without set goals, without a plan. Well, there was one exception to all of this. Jim wanted to eat lunch at Leo's Hamburgeria. We had seen Leo's on our first visit to Sirmione nearly two years ago, but we had not eaten there as I do not eat red meat. But, now, Jim really wanted to go, and knowing that I could get something that did not include products from any animal with big brown eyes, I agreed to try it.

No kiddng, there is a place called Leo's Hamburgeria

With Luca in the lead, my husband, Jim, and I strolled down the park lined avenue, over the bridge, past the castle, and into the medieval town of Sirmione. From our previous visit to Sirmione, we had a good idea where Leo's was, and so we set off to find it. Finding it was easy; but once we did, we were met by disappointment. It seems Leo's was closed for some renovation. Okay, new plan for our plan-less day; find a place for lunch. And the Bill theory of the life of Jim and Maree scores another point. Jim's friend Bill likes to remind us that if we have a plan, that is a guarantee that we will do something else.

While there is certainly no dearth of restaurants in Sirmione, we were now looking for something special. At every restaurant, we stopped to read the menu. Finally, we reached the end of the peninsula where the swans were entertaining the tourists, or perhaps the tourists were entertaining the swans. It certainly was not clear from watching the interaction. Our dog, Luca, found them interesting, but reason overshadowed his curiosity (unlike some of the tourists) and he had no desire to get too close.

The swans of Sirmione inspecting a tourist

As we headed further into the village, we spotted a menu strategically placed under a portico at the top of some stairs heading into a secluded setting by the lake. The location made this seem a little mysterious and possibly exclusive, and we decided to peruse the menu. The menu looked really interesting, interesting in a good way. I immediately wanted to try a couple of the things, but the price was amazing too. So, we kept walking and reading menus. Unfortunately, after the amazing menu, nothing else looked good. So, we compromised. We will go to the expensive restaurant and just have a couple of appetizers and some wine. Retracing our tracks, we entered Antica Trattoria La Speranzina. And, we were not disappointed. Of course, our hamburger lunch just turned into a Michelin star lunch. I say, "Viva la differenza".

The entrance to the restaurant and garden decorated for the holidays

As planned, we ordered the shrimp and scallop appetizers. But ordering the wine, was much more difficult. The encyclopedia sized volume sat in front of me, and I kept wandering through the pages as I sipped my aperitif of Franciacorta. While I perused the tome, the amuse bouche arrived. It was a feast for the senses, quail eggs with caviar, small cones filled with gorgonzola and mascarpone, thumbnail size arancini. But now, the pressure was on. What wine will I drink. Okay, it should not have been that difficult since I had started out the day planning to do a Franciacorta tasting, and eventually reason prevailed. I ordered a bottle of Franciacorta. When the appetizers were finished, the Franciacorta effect was taking hold, and we decided we really should have something more to eat. Ravioli carbonara to share was our choice. Afterward, many beautiful little desserts courtesy of the house arrived. But, why talk about the food when I can show you the food. I think these photos will say it better than a 1,000 words and will more effectively spark your imagination and arouse your taste buds.

Enough about the food, let's talk about the Franciacorta. I must admit that I was prepared to not like it. I am not really a huge fan of most French champagne, and I thought Franciacorta might have the same overpowering yeasty taste. Ah, is it naivety; have I fallen prey to the advertising campaign, " Franciacorta is the Italian Champagne"? Some say the name Franciacorta even means little France. We ordered a bottle of Montenisa Franciacorta Brut which is a Marchese Antonori wine. The Montenisa estate is located in the heart of the Franciacorta DOCG, south of Lake Iseo in the Lombardy region. In 1999, the Marchese Antinori and Conti Maggi families partnered to manage the estate and produce Franciacorta. This Franciacorta is a DOCG wine fermented partly in stainless steel and partly in barriques with a second fermentation in the bottle for a minimum of 30 months. It is composed of Chardonnay, Pinot bianco, and a very little bit of Pinot nero. Our waiter arrived with the bottle, popped the cork, and I watched with anticipation as the Franciacorta cascaded into the glass.

The perlage was happy, lots of tiny bubbles gently floated to the surface. As I considered the nature of the bubbles, they transformed into the sugar plum fairies in The Nutcracker Ballet. But their dance did not falter when the song ended, the perlage was lasting. The golden yellow liquid was lighter in tone than many champagnes. The nose peaches, apples, toast, but with more fruit than yeast. It was very pleasant. In the mouth, the Montenisa was delicate, with a depth of flavors of ripe fruits and honey or melon. It is balanced and very approachable wine. After one sip I was now a Franciacorta drinker. I think my annual wine budget just skyrocketed.

The Montenisa Franciacorta Brut is available at multiple sellers in the United States for around $30.00 per bottle. Check out wine-searcher.com to find it in your area. It's a keeper.

For more information on the Montenisa Winery, visit their website at http://www.montenisa.it

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Drinking wine, wine, wine - Vinitaly Part 2

4/5/2015

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"A single glass of Champagne imports a feeling of exhilaration. The nerves are braced; the imagination is stirred; the wits become more nimble." Winston Churchill

It was now after noon and the smell of wine mixed with body odors permeated the halls of Vinitaly as we continued to slalom through the shoulder to shoulder crowds following Massimiliano from building to building searching for the best sparkling wines of Italy. At Vinitaly, there was no lunch break, no typical mid-day siestas. Zombies all, we moved along in a must-taste-wine trance. Although lunch beckoned, eager attendees continued to charge from booth to booth in search of the perfect wine, or as often seemed to be the case, the next drink. There were so many young people in the crowd it was difficult to believe that they were all actually in the wine business. Has Vinitaly just become a place to party and to taste as many wines as possible? Is it actually possible to conduct business among the confusion, noise, and chaos?

While I pondered these things, we approached the Franciacorta building. I was eager to try Franciacorta as it is advertised as Italy's champagne. I wondered if it was just good advertising or the real thing. As we approached the tasting area, however, we saw the line snaking around corners and down the stairs. Here, they tried to control the crowd by taking only a certain number of people at a time for the tastings, but that just seemed to create a longer queue. Knowing that we had limited time and there were other wines on our list, we decided to skip the Franciacorta tasting and move on to another region. Our hotel was in the Franciacorta area, and and I decided I would do some leisurely tasting back in the tranquility of Sirmione.

The crowds converging on the Franciacorta tasting area

Thus, with a this is not a problem attitude, we moved on to search for Ferrari. Not surprisingly, after the lines at Franciacorta, the lines at Ferrari were also prohibitive. And we marched on like good soldiers following our general, Massmiliano. Luca, too, kept up the pace as we darted through the ever growing crowd. But, we had to stop several times for folks to admire Luce or to take his picture. Not one to shy away from the paparazzi, Luca was very gracious about all of the attention and smiled politely for the cameras. While he is happy to shake hands, only rarely does he give autographs.

Luca smiling for his fans.

Eventually, with Luca in tow, we made our way back to the Veneto region and to the Cantina di Soave, a large and internationally known winery that has been producing wines since 1898. Cantina di Soave is a cooperative initiated by 10 grape growers who joined together to improve the quality of their wines. In the 1930's, with 51 partners, the organization formally became known as Cantina Sociale Cooperativa di Soave. Today, the cooperative has grown to include over 2,000 grape growers and boasts one of Italy's most diverse wine portfolios comprised of still wines from the Soave, Amarone, Valpollicella and Durello grapes and a wide selection of sparkling wines.

Cristina, Massimiliano and I tasting at the Cantina di Soave

Muller Thurgau grapes

When we arrived at the bar at Cantina di Soave, they were offering tastes of their Perlit Brut, a methodo martinotti (or charmat) made from Muller Thurgau and Durello grapes. The wine is an easy drinking sparkling like Prosecco that combines the diverse characteristics of these two lesser known grape varieties. Muller Thurgau is a grape that has been historically associated with a number of not very good and rather sweet German wines, but it is also grown in the Veneto and Lombardy regions of Italy. Engineered in 1882, there has been much controversy about the parentage of Muller Thurgau. In 2000, genetic research confirmed that the grape is the result of crossing the Reisling and Madeleine Royale grapes. Muller Thurgau is an aromatic grape with the scent of apples, peaches, pears and white flowers. Durello, on the other hand is a highly acidic grape which makes it particularly good for sparkling wines. The origin of the variety can be traced back to 1252, but it was not recognized as an Italian DOC wine until 1987. The grape is known for its tough skin, and as the name implies, a hardness. In combination with Muller Thurgau it produces a dry and balanced sparkling wine with a nose of citrus and white flowers. A healthy perlage dances the twist in the glass but is soft in the mouth. Like Prosecco, this is an easy drinking wine.

From the Veneto, we headed further north to the region of Trentino Alto Adige to taste the wines of Cesarini Sforza, a cantina located in Trento, just south of the Dolomites. Cesarini Sforza, named for two historically prominent Italian families has been making sparkling wines for 40 years. We were able to taste two of their sparkling wines: the Tridentvm Dosaggio Zero and the Tridentvm Brut Rose, both methodo classico wines from the Trento DOC.

The Tridentvm Dosaggio Zero is made from Pinot Nero grapes grown in the hills at more than 1,500 feet elevation. The Dosage Zero appellation refers to the fact that after the disgorgement there is no additional sugar added. This wine has a first fermentation in large barrels and a second fermentation in the bottle for 36 months. The nose has the spicy and floral notes typical of the Pinot Nero grape. The palate is crisp with white peach and cherry and an almond finish. Tridentvm Dosaggio Zero is a vigorous wine with a persistent and fine perlage. This is a wine to enjoy throughout the meal. For those who care about such things, it has been given 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Massimiliano, me and Cristina, pausing for a photo before tasting the Cesarini Sforza wines

The Tridentvm Brut Rose, is also another Wine Enthusiast selection at 89 points. Again, this is made from the Pinot Nero grape with a first fermentation in stainless steel tanks followed by a second fermentation of 48 months in the bottle. The wine has an intense nose of berries and bread crust and the palate is fruity with grapefruit and strawberries and a nutty finish. It is a perfect summer wine with antipasti or even with a light chicken or pasta dish.

There was no escaping the masses even in the restaurant where thecrowds and waiting continued

After our winery visits, the clock was striking 2:00 pm and my empty stomach was telling me that it needed food before any more wine could cross my lips. We thanked Massimiliano and Cristina for the tour of some unique, quality producers and headed off to one of the many restaurants for a light lunch, and what else, a glass of wine, of course. Two hours later, after more waiting than eating, we stopped by the Colonnara booth to say goodbye. It was time for us to head back to Sirmione where peace, quiet and Franciacorta waited. (See my next blog for my Franciacorta experience.)

My first visit to Vinitaly was definitely eye opening both in terms of the vast variety of sparkling wines coming out of Italy and also the experience. So, in case you plan to head to Verona next year for Vinitaly, here is what to expect:

1. It is not a place to actually relax, ask questions, and gather information about each wine you taste. The winery personnel just don't have the time to talk with you unless you are a serious buyer who has made an appointment.

2. Patience is critical, especially if you want to taste the well known wines. For the wines you and everyone else want to taste, there will be a long wait - just like the line for space mountain. Just getting to and from the venue are extremely time consuming. Our experience of 2 1/2 hours to get there from Sirmione taking a train and taxi (an experience which should have taken no more than 40 minutes) has been surpassed by our friends' stories about trying to find parking or trying to exit the parking garage. Cristina and Massimiliano left late on Monday night after working at the Colonnara booth, and they ended up sitting in gridlock on the 5th floor of the parking structure for over two hours.

3. You'll know how the rats feel trapped in the maze after a few hours here. If you have any bit of claustrophobia, this is not the place for you.

4. It is best to have a plan of what wineries you want to visit and to contact them in advance to make sure you will be able to see them. Some wineries were doing tasting by appointment only and others were impossible to approach.

5. It seems to be more party than business venue. Although the ticket buying process screens participants about their connection to the wine industry and many folks are actually there to find wineries and arrange purchases, I was totally surprised by the number of people who seemed to be hanging out and drinking. Our train ride back to Sirmione was filled with the inebriated party goers, still partying. So, if it's a party you are looking for, this could be the place. There is even musical entertainment.

Fair well Vinitaly. Will I return next year? This is a question I continue to ponder.

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March Madness Italian Style: Vinitaly (Part 1)

4/1/2015

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"In victory you drink champagne. In defeat you need it." Napoleon Bonaparte

Each year in late March or early April, hordes of wine enthusiasts converge on Verona for Vinitaly, the world's most comprehensive exposition of Italian wines. I have been a victim of the allure of Vinitaly for more than a decade, ever since my husband Jim and I started an Italian wine importing business. Each year as spring approached my thoughts would turn to Vinitaly, but by that time, it was too late. Too late to get tickets and hotels, and too late for us to adequately plan the trip. As the years went by and we finally closed our wine importing business and moved to Italy, the call of Vinitaly grew more faint and eventually, it was no more than a memory of a desire. That is until I decided to finally pursue my passion for sparkling wines.

So this year, Jim and I packed up the little white Alfa, and along with our dog Luca, headed north to attend Vinitaly. We arrived in Sirmione, on the southern coast of Lake Garda on Sunday afternoon. We booked a hotel here, 20 minutes by train from Verona, in order to avoid the crush of the city. Sirmione, a very narrow peninsula, is a beautiful vacation destination, and we planned to enjoy it as well as the wine exposition.

The castle, Sirmione, Italy

When Monday morning arrived, we took a taxi to the station in Desenzano di Garda where we would depart for Verona. Of course, the day had to begin with craziness. I forgot our tickets for Vinitaly, and as we approached the station, I had to ask the cab driver to turn around and go back to the hotel. Miraculously we arrived back at the train station with about 2 minutes until our train departed.

In Verona there was a free shuttle from the station to Verona Fiere where the exposition takes place. But, the masses were at least 6 abreast waiting for the next shuttle bus, and in typical Italian fashion, there was no rhyme or reason to the queuing process. So, we decided to go take a taxi. In hind sight, I do not know if this was any better as we waited in line for one hour for a taxi, but at least with Luca it was not as crowded as the bus would have been. The taxi dropped us off around the corner from the entrance, and we followed the crowds to the doors where there was more waiting and more lines and more people than I have ever seen in one place other than at a Bon Jovi concert. Finally, moving along with the crush of people, we made our way through the turnstiles and into the exposition area where about 15 large warehouse type buildings advertised the regions of Italy. (It only took us two and one half hours from the time we left our hotel to get this far.) To give you a feeling for the size of this event, here are a few statistics: there is about 970,000 square feet of exhibition space which was visited by nearly 38,000 people per day for each of the four days of the event. Estimates are that visitors arrived from 140 different countries, nearly 20% of these visitors were from the US and Canada.

The masses arriving to taste the wines of Italy.

Once inside, we stopped to telephone Cristina. Cristina and her husband, Massimiliano, the President of the Colonnara winery in Le Marche, would be our guides to taste some unique sparkling wines. We met them at the Colonnara stand where they were busy introducing their wines to numerous potential buyers. While we awaited Massimiliano who was engaged with a client, we had our first taste of the event, Luigi Giuslieri, one of two methodo classico wines made by Colonnara. YUM! (Note: I have discussed this excellent wine in a previous post about the Colonnara winery.) Once Massimiliano was available, we were off on an adventure dodging through the maze of people to taste selections from various regions.

Crowd surfing Vinitaly style

Erbaluce grapes

While Piemonte (Piedmont) may be best known for its red wines Barolo, Barbara and Nebbiola, it is also home to a number of outstanding and often times very particular white grape varieties which are being made into distinctive sparkling wines. Erbaluce an ancient grape grown in the area of Caluso, about 20 miles from Turin, is an excellent example of one of Italy's lesser known grape varieties. First documented in the 1600s, Erbaluce was given a DOC designation in 1967 and a DOCG in 2010. The story of the Erbaluce grape variety, like many fairy tales, involves a beautiful girl, Albaluce. Albaluce, a nymph, is the daughter of the Dawn and the Sun, and thus her name which means dawn light. She was renowned for her beauty which inspired the local people to revere her as a goddess. And they paid tribute to her by giving her everything they had. As the people gave and gave, they eventually accidentally flooded their crops. Albaluce was so saddened by this event that she cried for the people; and where her tears hit the earth, the Erbaluce grape sprang forth. The name Erbaluce combines the Italian words for grass and light bringing together two distinct characteristics of the grape: the nose of herbs and the color of the grapes in the fall.

The Orsolani family, one of the top producers of Erbaluce, has been making wines for four generations. Massmiliano directed us to their booth to taste their 2009 Cuvee Tradizione, a methodo classico brut from the Caluso Spumante DOC. The first fermentation of this wine is done part in steel tanks and part in barrels with a second fermentation in the bottle for 60 months. In the glass, the wine is a golden yellow color with an elegant perlage. The nose is strikingly unique. Rather than the typical scent of fruits or flowers or honey or nuts, this wine smells like the earth and herbs - sage and rosemary. It reminded me of farm land and grazing goats. The taste, however, was not as unusual as the nose. Here is the taste of honey, hazelnuts, and minerals. This is a very distinctive and interesting wine with an enjoyable depth of character. It can be served throughout the meal with pastas, fish, poultry or even pork dishes. For more information on the Orsolani winery visit their website at http://www.orsolani.com/en/

2009 Cuvee Tradizione

Our next stop in the Piedmont area was a well established winery located in Monteu Roero, south of Turin. Azienda Agricola Negro Angelo and Figli is a family owned winery that has been growing grapes in this area since 1670. Of course, our first taste was a sparkling Roero Arneis. The Giovanni Negro Extra Brut Methodo Classico undergoes its first fermentation 50% in stainless steel tanks and 50% in barrique. The second fermentation is 60 months in the bottle. In the glass, Giovanni Negro is a golden yellow with an elegant perlage. The nose is somewhat floral and fruity with a hint of toasted bread. On the palate, the wine is creamy with a hint of pear. I have to admit that I was never one to like Roero Arneis, but this wine changed my mind. It is a soft wine with balanced acidity.

Giovanni Negro Extra Brut Methodo Classico

After the Roero Arneis, we tasted a second distinctive wine from the Negro winery cellars, Negro Maria Elisa Rose'. A methodo classico made from the Nebbiolo grape, Maria Elisa Rose' undergoes a first fermentation for two months in barrique followed by a second fermentation in the bottle for at least 36 months. The wine is a deep rose color with the scent of roses and berries. It maintains many qualities of the Nebbiolo grape which provides a depth and balance and a rich flavor, but it is not overpowering. It is a more refined and structured than a majority of rose' wines which seem like fruit juice in comparison. This is not only a wine for aperitif. It can also be served with main dishes like pork or veal. Visit the Negro winery website at http://www.negroangelo.it/ing/vini.asp

Maria Elisa Rose'

The wine I especially wanted to taste in the Piedmont area was a sparkling Gavi. I have been a fan of the Gavi grape for years. It is actually one of my favorite still wines. It is a light wine with a good balance of acidity. In America, I had the opportunity to taste the Banfi sparkling Gavi, and I was very interested in tasting sparkling wines made by other Gavi wineries. Unfortunately, the only sparkling Gavi we saw was made by the charmat method and it was a disappointment. We had hoped to taste at the La Scolca booth as they make excellent Gavi still wines and also a number of sparkling wines. Unfortunately, we were unable to find their booth in the midst of all the chaos. So, now I am planning a trip to Gavi to visit La Scolca and other Gavi wineries this summer. Well, that is not such a bad outcome after all. And I will just have to rein in my impatience.

Check back for the sparkling wines of Soave and Trentino Alto Adige in Part 2 of the Vinitaly tour - as the madness continues.

Vinitaly, 2015

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In Venice with my best friend, Luca

About Me

I am an American ex-pat who lived most of a decade in Le Marche, Italy. A former Italian wine importer, I am an Italian wine enthusiast. And sparkling wines are my passion. Back in California, I continue my quest to discover the wide variety of sparkling wines made in Italy and elsewhere.

Luca does Vinitaly - official canine representative, 2015

My book, Dog Days in Italy about my humans' 20 year love affair with Italy is available on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Dog-Days-Italy-Became-Expat/dp/B09JYP2M27