When our friend Cristina mentioned a local tasting of three of the world's finest sparkling wines, my eyes lit up and my inner child was jumping up and down saying I want to go, can I go while simultaneously I worked to maintain a proper mask of decorum. Since I was so focused on trying to keep my cool, my husband, Jim, managed to ask the question first, "Can we go?" Cristina promised to call Giovanni Fabretti, a Delegate of the Federazione Italiana Sommelier, who was organizing the event to see if there was still space available. And so, that is how on the following Friday night, Jim and I found ourselves in the car with Cristina, her husband, Massmiliano, and our friend Silvia on our way to Cupramontana, a small hill town in the province of Ancona in Le Marche.
The tasting line up for the evening would feature two Italian sparkling wines: Ubaldo Rosi Riserva 2008, a local Marche wine from Massmiliano's winery, Colonnara, in Cupramontana and Guilio Ferrari Riserva del Fontadore 2002 from the Ferrari cellars in Trentino. The third selection was a French Champagne, Cristal 2004, a name that is synonymous with champagne excellence.
The tasting line up for the evening would feature two Italian sparkling wines: Ubaldo Rosi Riserva 2008, a local Marche wine from Massmiliano's winery, Colonnara, in Cupramontana and Guilio Ferrari Riserva del Fontadore 2002 from the Ferrari cellars in Trentino. The third selection was a French Champagne, Cristal 2004, a name that is synonymous with champagne excellence.
It was the end of the night and the bottles were empty but the taste lingered on
We arrived at the Palazzo Leoni, the home of the International Museum of Wine Labels, at 9:00 pm. and made our way to the Enoteca Comunale housed in the ancient wine cellars of the palazzo.
 Entering the Enoteca Comunale, Cupramontana |  A 19th century wine press on display in the Enoteca Comunale |
In the tasting room, half a dozen small tables were prepared with three glasses at each place setting. We took our seats at a table joining the small coterie of wine enthusiasts anxiously awaiting the start of the event, and more precisely, the pouring of the wines. As we sat waiting for late comers, I looked longingly at the glasses full of anticipation.
A table prepared with three glasses, one for each of the wines to be tasted
Giovanni, the host for the evening, commenced his powerpoint presentation discussing the champagne making process and the story of each wine. When he began the story of Ubaldo Rosi, he introduced Massmiliano, who spoke about Ubaldo Rosi, named for a pioneer of sparkling wine making in Le Marche who recognized the potential of the verdicchio grape as a sparkling wine made in the classic champagne method. At last, fashionably late, the wines arrived, all three at the same time, so that we could do a comparative tasting.
Giovanni discussing the Cristal
Here are my thoughts about the wines. I must note at the outset, however, that if you are expecting Robert Parker, think again. For me, all of that point allocation methodology is like an accounting algorithm that sucks the joy out of the tasting experience. There are too many elements that affect one's enjoyment of a particular wine at a particular moment that can't be quantified including the story and the environment in addition to your nose, your pallet and your preferences. So, here is my gestalt on the wines presented on that Friday evening.
First, the Ubaldo Rosi was poured into the glasses followed by the Guilio Ferrari and finally the Cristal. Each wine had that beautiful golden straw color, although the Ferrari, which is aged in the bottle for 10 years, had an almost imperceptibly darker hue. The Ubaldo Rosi maintained a fresher nose with hints of fruitiness along with bread crust and almond. The Guilio Ferrari, on the other hand had a more aggressive nose with toasted hazelnuts, honey and a hint of liquor. Finally, the Cristal, which I was so excited to try since I had never tasted it, had the most aggressive nose with what my friend Silvia described as a scent of proscuitto. For me, the nose was overpowered by the scent of wood, as this wine is enjoys some aging in oak. Since I am not a fan of wines aged in oak, preferring the true taste of the fruit, this placed the Cristal in third place for me immediately.
First, the Ubaldo Rosi was poured into the glasses followed by the Guilio Ferrari and finally the Cristal. Each wine had that beautiful golden straw color, although the Ferrari, which is aged in the bottle for 10 years, had an almost imperceptibly darker hue. The Ubaldo Rosi maintained a fresher nose with hints of fruitiness along with bread crust and almond. The Guilio Ferrari, on the other hand had a more aggressive nose with toasted hazelnuts, honey and a hint of liquor. Finally, the Cristal, which I was so excited to try since I had never tasted it, had the most aggressive nose with what my friend Silvia described as a scent of proscuitto. For me, the nose was overpowered by the scent of wood, as this wine is enjoys some aging in oak. Since I am not a fan of wines aged in oak, preferring the true taste of the fruit, this placed the Cristal in third place for me immediately.
Here I am discussing the nose with Massmiliano, President of Colonnara winery, Cupramontana
Okay, so the nose is important, but how about the taste. The Ubaldo Rosi, awarded 3 bicchieri from Gambero Rossi and identified as the third best sparkling wine in Italy and the best south of the Po river, was the youngest of the three wines with 60 months of aging on the lees. It also had the distinction of being made from 100% verdicchio grapes from the Castello di Jesi DOC rather than chardonnay and pinot. Verdicchio is a very ancient grape, going back to ancient Roman times, and is often cited as the best wine to accompany fish. The Ubaldo Rosi, maintained the qualities of the verdicchio grape with a blend of dryness and mineralness, but the bottle aging added depth and refinement with a finish of almonds.
The Guilio Ferrari was somewhat of an enigma to me. The wine, a consistent 3 bicchieri winner, is aged 10 years in the bottle and the final touch is the addition of "liqueur di expedition" which adds a dose of sweetness and the scent of liqueur to the nose. The contents of this addition are a closely guarded secret. This wine had balance and body with flavors of vanilla and honey and a hint of liqueur at the finish which made the flavor distinctive.
Finally, the Cristal, a wine that is aged for 6 years. What I personally liked best about the Cristal is the story of the Russian Tsar, Alexander II, for whom the wine was initially made. Fearing assassination attempts, the Tsar wanted the wine in a clear bottle where no bomb could be hidden, thus a clear crystal bottle with no dimple in the bottom was made. This is where the name Cristal originated. The taste, mineral and citrus but definitely aged in wood.
Of the three wines, I preferred the Ubaldo Rosi. Whether it is because it maintained the qualities of verdicchio which because I live in the Castelli di Jesi DOC is my everyday wine or because it maintained a more vivid bouquet and taste, I do not know. The Cristal, on the other hand, was my least favorite because I could not get past the wood aging influence on the nose and the taste. But that is okay with me as it once again confirmed my love of Italian sparkling wines.
The Guilio Ferrari was somewhat of an enigma to me. The wine, a consistent 3 bicchieri winner, is aged 10 years in the bottle and the final touch is the addition of "liqueur di expedition" which adds a dose of sweetness and the scent of liqueur to the nose. The contents of this addition are a closely guarded secret. This wine had balance and body with flavors of vanilla and honey and a hint of liqueur at the finish which made the flavor distinctive.
Finally, the Cristal, a wine that is aged for 6 years. What I personally liked best about the Cristal is the story of the Russian Tsar, Alexander II, for whom the wine was initially made. Fearing assassination attempts, the Tsar wanted the wine in a clear bottle where no bomb could be hidden, thus a clear crystal bottle with no dimple in the bottom was made. This is where the name Cristal originated. The taste, mineral and citrus but definitely aged in wood.
Of the three wines, I preferred the Ubaldo Rosi. Whether it is because it maintained the qualities of verdicchio which because I live in the Castelli di Jesi DOC is my everyday wine or because it maintained a more vivid bouquet and taste, I do not know. The Cristal, on the other hand, was my least favorite because I could not get past the wood aging influence on the nose and the taste. But that is okay with me as it once again confirmed my love of Italian sparkling wines.
Enjoying the champagne and oysters with friends, Cristina, Silvia, Massmiliano (unfortunately, my husband Jim is behind the camera)
